Persimmons: the superstars of winter baking.
Those who traverse Northern California’s backroads in late fall are likely to encounter a dazzling persimmon tree heavy with bright orange globes and adorned with colorful leaves. The autumnal trees seem to glow from within and have been dubbed “fruit of the gods” by ancient Greeks. With their delicate flavor, persimmons are a local edible treasure that, thanks to high moisture content, can serve as the star ingredient of winter baking.
Originally from Asia, persimmon trees first came to California in the mid-1800s and The Golden State is home to two primary types: the prolific hachiya, an astringent variety with an oblong shape, and the non-astringent type, a fuyu, which is round like an apple. A persimmon is ready to eat when it turns a bright pumpkin-like orange color and the flesh has plenty of softness when pressed by a thumb. An unripe persimmon will make your mouth pucker because of its high level of inherent tannins, so choose wisely.
The flavor of a persimmon is often described as honey-like, but some say the fruit tastes a little like pineapple, tomato or even cantaloupe, with a texture similar to that of an apricot. The key to enjoying a persimmon raw, and for success in baking, is to select those that are perfectly ripe and very soft. Another way to enjoy the fruit is dried, a Japanese delicacy called hoshigaki. Preparing hoshigaki involves drying peeled persimmons for a period of time, massaging them daily to soften them and paying careful attention to the weather to ensure their sugars concentrate properly. Otow Orchard in Granite Bay has been growing persimmons for over 50 years, has perfected drying the hachiya type, and sells hoshigaki at its farm. According to co-owner Tosh Kuratomi, “The flavor gets better the longer you wait.” The result of coaxing all this natural sugar is a dense, chewy delicacy that’s prized for holiday charcuterie boards and accompanying wine and cheese any time.
Chock full of rich history and flavor, the persimmon is well worth the pit stop. Harvest season varies but fruit is typically ready for picking as early as September and goes through late fall. Persimmons may be found for sale at local farm stands, farmers’ markets, and grocery stores throughout November and December. Persimmons are a lovely addition to baked spiced breads, cookies, and brownies and crisp winter salads. Persimmon jam spread on toast is a cold morning delight.
Hoshigaki is made by stringing up persimmons to allow them to dry in the sun. This old preservation method was created to keep the sweet orange fruits throughout the winter. The strung fruit served an ornamental purpose as a New Year's decoration and was considered a sign of good luck and longevity.
