Husband and wife team share love of wine at Elk Grove’s Christopher Cellars

Christopher Cellars 2020 Brut Rosé. Photo by Rachel Valley

When the Stars Align

Sometimes life clicks and everything seems to fall magically into place. That seems to be true for Chris and Candice Mora, owners of Elk Grove’s much-loved new local winery, Christopher Cellars.

“It’s like the stars aligned,” Candice says.

Candice grew up in the restaurant business alongside her dad, Brett Bohlmann, chef/owner of Boulevard Bistro in Elk Grove’s Old Town. She was managing the wine list at age 18. When Chris was 18, he was working in the cellar at Robert Mondavi’s Woodbridge Winery, where he became intrigued by the science and art of winemaking. In college, he took a job at Boulevard Bistro, where he met his future wife. Married with three children and a winery before age 30, the two apparently know what they want.

After spending four seasons with a local winemaker learning viticulture from the inside out, the Moras jumped at the chance to put their knowledge and skills to the test by partnering in a joint venture with the Bartholomew Estate, vineyards and a winery owned by Beverly Brautigam and Hal Bartholomew.

“I was very blessed to meet the right people at the right time. It’s so much fun when you know what you are doing,” Chris says.

Christopher Cellars is a joint venture between Hal Bartholomew and Beverly Brautigam of Bartholomew Family Vineyards and Candice and Chris Mora. Photo by Rachel Valley
Christopher Cellars is a joint venture between Hal Bartholomew and Beverly Brautigam of Bartholomew Family Vineyards and Candice and Chris Mora. Photo by Rachel Valley

The Wine

Chris and Candice quickly went to work. They ripped out three and a half acres and planted Spanish, Italian, and some French vines such as barbera, petit verdot, and carménère — Mediterranean gems that pair well with food and grow well in the Lodi American Viticultural Area (AVA).

“Wine and food really elevate your experience,” says Chris, who considers himself a caretaker of the wine.

The delta breezes and no hard freezes create ideal conditions — cool nights and warm days for full ripeness that holds acidity well. Grapes are picked a little early at the vineyard to achieve the ideal pH level and fruit-forward finish.

The Moras share a bottle of Brut Rosé. Photo courtesy of Candice Mora
The Moras share a bottle of Brut Rosé. Photo courtesy of Candice Mora

Working with an experienced consultant with 40 years’ knowledge of grape growing, the Moras expanded the operation and planted 4.6 acres with “head trained” (vine management without wires or posts) gnarly vines, to help protect and shade the grapes during heat spells. Because the vineyard is small, under 20 acres, Christopher Cellars uses people rather than machines to harvest the grapes.

“I could not be more excited to have full control,” Chris says. “I believe the quality of wine happens in the vineyard.”

In addition to growing its own grapes, Christopher Cellars sources fruit from seven different vineyards in the region to produce about 2,000 cases a year of 15 different varietals. The goal of the boutique vineyard is to make terroir-driven wines, in which environmental characteristics affect flavor.

“We’re making liquid art. When I fell in love with winemaking, I fell in love with the art form,” Chris says. “My biggest goal is to make the best wine possible.”

The Experience

On March 7, 2020, Christopher Cellars held its first event, and 100 people signed up for its wine club. One day later, COVID-19 lockdowns went into place. The wine club helped the winery keep a community engaged during a challenging time. The club was a hit, and soon Chris and Candice were leading popular wine tasting events via Zoom.

“The Elk Grove community really wrapped its virtual arms around us,” Chris says. “We often sell out [a new varietal/wine] before we can release it to the public.”

“That word of mouth has been everything,” Candice adds.

In July, the couple opened a wine tasting room at the vineyard in a 3,000-square-foot converted metal barn. It’s an inviting space with a wall of wine barrels inside and beautiful oak trees in the yard.

During harvest season, customers get to learn about the process of winemaking by observing all stages — crushing, pressing, stemming, and more — making this far from a snooty atmosphere. Chris is happy to stop and chat while he makes wine, explaining how fermentation happens, while Candice, a sommelier, loves to talk about food-and-wine pairings.

“It’s a fun place if you want to dive into wine. When you come to Christopher Cellars, you’ll get a very intimate experience,” Chris says. “We’re small, and we’re all extremely passionate about the wine.”

Christopher Cellars
Christophercellars.com

Recipes

Grilled Rack of Lamb with Chimichurri Sauce
Chicken Tacos with Pineapple Salsa
Watermelon Salad