The rich culture of tea around the world.

Water was being boiled for Chinese emperor Shen Nong when a dead leaf from a wild tea bush blew into the hot water. This encounter in 2737 BC, as legend has it, is the origin of tea. That is just one of many alleged beginnings of a drink that has become an essential component of countless cultures around the globe. Like the lore around it, tea has various cultures of preparation, presentation, and consumption.

England

Growing up with a British mother and an American father, Tamara Monceaux spent many of her formative years abroad. Her visits to see family in England always began with the same question from one of her relatives: “Want a cuppa tea?”

No matter the time of day, Brits will gladly sit down for the country’s most popular beverage. What’s called “elevenses” refers to a snack and a spot of tea around the hour of 11 a.m. Afternoon tea may refer to a more formal setting in which a tower of desserts is enjoyed, or more commonly among those with day jobs, it’s an afternoon tea break. When a kettle is put on in the evening, it’s typically for high tea. Served with more hearty items like meat, bread, or vegetable dishes, high tea might resemble dinner.

“The most popular tea is black tea, followed by Earl Grey,” says Monceaux, the manager of Touch of Britain, a restaurant in Sacramento. “Throughout the day, it can be served with sandwiches, crumpets, scones or a complete dinner.”

Monceaux says British tea drinkers also appreciate a good cream tea, which includes clotted cream.
The proper way to make it is to put the milk in first, then add the tea. “I’ve actually done a taste test with tea first, and the difference is that milk first takes out some of the acidity,” Monceaux explains, noting that the correct way to stir the tea is by moving the spoon up and down instead of in circles. Just like an Oreo with milk, biscuits — the British word for cookies — are dunked in the tea.

“If you’re having high tea, the etiquette is to dress nicely, keep phones off the table, hold the cup by the handle and keep pinkies down,” says Monceaux. “And we do not put the spoon in our mouths or pick up the saucer — that stays on the table.”

Whether a cup of Yorkshire, Tetley, or PG Tips tea is enjoyed with a partner in the morning or with friends at a special outing, Monceaux says, the motivation remains the same: “Tea starts the conversation and promotes relaxation. We live so much of our lives online these days, but tea is the key to socializing and also hospitality.”

India

The tea plant was introduced to India in the 19th century by the British East India Co. in its efforts to break China’s monopoly on the product. Chinese seedlings were planted in the region of Assam and later, native tea plants were discovered growing wild in the Upper Brahmaputra Valley. The Chinese seeds failed to thrive in the hot climate, while the local plant flourished. Sometimes referred to as the “Champagne of tea,” Darjeeling tea remains today both highly regarded and highly profitable.

The word for tea in Hindi is chai. That word is used globally to describe the Indian style of tea brewing, which involves a crush-tear-curl process where black tea leaves are shredded and turned into uniform granules. The leaves are commonly boiled with milk and sugar, as well as spices like ginger, cardamom, and clove.

Residents of Delhi prefer the malai-maarke version, which introduces a dollop of fresh cream, or malai, to Indian Masala Chai, while Mumbaikars prefer cutting chai, or half a cup of tea. Smaller villages in Northern India may brew and serve tea in khullad (earthen pots).

It’s common practice among Indians to offer tea to a guest as a form of respect and hospitality. This act symbolizes the age-old Indian tradition of treating guests as gods, a signal that their presence is valued and respected. A chai break at work is an opportunity for Indian employees to enjoy some respite and develop camaraderie among colleagues.

Japan

The artisan, hand-crafted ceramic cups and kettles often found in a Japanese tea setting are what first attracted Christy Bartlett to the art of tea. “I was interested in Japanese ceramics, so I studied pre-modern Japanese history and language in the country and found that most of the objects that really drew me in had to do with tea.” Bartlett, who teaches a course called The Way of Tea, at Sacramento State University, is the founding director of The Urasenke Foundation San Francisco. The class covers the history, philosophy, and aesthetics of Japanese culture.

The aesthetic of Japanese tea culture is what Bartlett describes as “very complex and nuanced,” adding “there’s no one tone, it’s more like a symphony.” Starting with the ambience, it’s important to have a clean space for serving the tea. “Both physically clean and no clutter,” she explains. “Anything that is brought into the space naturally receives attention and importance, so it’s important to be intentional.”

That includes the serving vessel, like the traditional kyūsu that’s used to serve matcha green tea. The teapot is often made of porcelain or fired volcanic clay and is sometimes ornate with beautiful hand-carved designs. The pots used for serving tea typically have a long side handle, as opposed to a curved one. “The utensils brought by the host are a means of communicating: happiness, joy, auspiciousness,” she shares. “They can’t just be beautiful, they must be functional, too — seven parts function, three parts aesthetic.”

A Japanese tea ceremony begins with an invitation from the host. To prepare for the ceremony, the host will arrange the space, and guests may perform a spiritual cleansing, washing their hands outside the space to publicly display purification. Guests are received by the host and seated. Sweets are gifted to each guest to be eaten before or after, not with the tea. The host then symbolically cleanses the utensils with a fukusa (silk cloth). Next, matcha is prepared and served to the guests. The ceremony ends with the utensils again being cleaned, then passed around to the guests for admiration. Guests bow as they thank their host before departing.

“There are as many as 500 different procedures for a tea ceremony,” says Bartlett. “But conversation is the purpose of the gathering. The guests and the host are engaged in a practice of culture and the art of conversation.”

Morocco

Enjoying a cup of tea in Morocco may take one’s tea consumption to new heights. That’s in part because of the cultural performance of pouring tea from 12 inches or higher above the cup. This style creates a frothiness that Moroccans prefer, and many believe it ensures the tea is re-aerated, allowing it to regain the oxygen it lost when water is boiled.

Historians disagree on how Morocco was first introduced to tea, but undebated is the fact that tea has a rich history in the country. While tea is not grown locally, Moroccan mint, often added to tea, is a beloved commodity worldwide.

The traditional Moroccan tea ceremony, called the atay naa naa, is considered the most distinguished expression of hospitality. Special Gunpowder, a Chinese green tea, is used for its refreshing ability to quench thirst. The head of household typically prepares the tea, which undergoes a mixing process that occurs by pouring the infusion from teapot to teapot. A handful of mint leaves, a large piece of sugarloaf, and rrouh (the tea) are added to each teapot and covered with boiling water. The tea is served from a metal teapot after sugar has been added to the infused tea and it has been properly mixed. A volume of froth is essential, indicating the tea has been prepared correctly.

In Morocco, tea is not consumed in a hurry, rather in a gentle, warm, and relaxed way. This Moroccan saying captures why tea is always served three times:

The first glass is as bitter as life,
the second glass is as strong as love,
the third glass is as gentle as death.