Hard kombucha joins the ranks of Sacramento area boozy beverages.

There’s beer and near-beer; wine and non-alcoholic wine; and, of course, virgin cocktails and herbal elixirs. But not every bevvy lover is aware that kombucha comes in two styles: alcoholic and non-alcoholic. 

Considered in health food circles a better-for-you-beverage, kombucha is often loaded with probiotics and antioxidants. For many, it’s an acquired taste but can serve as a satisfying alternative to highly processed sugary sodas and bland bubbly water. It’s also popular for those who are looking to curb their alcohol consumption. 

Kombucha is a tangy, slightly carbonated product made from sugar and fermented tea, typically black tea, green tea, or a combination of both. The fermentation occurs thanks to the presence of a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast, referred to as SCOBY, which converts sugars into alcohol. Slow the fermentation, and the alcohol level remains low and less sweet. Allow it to build and the alcohol level rises, increasing sweetness.

Any fermented food, including vinegar, sauerkraut, kefir, and soy sauce, contain some alcohol. All kombucha has trace amounts of alcohol due to this process, as well, but to be labeled non-alcoholic, the brew must contain no more than 0.5 percent ABV (alcohol by volume). Hard kombucha typically falls into the 4 to 7 percent range, similar to beer. Alcohol naturally occurs during the brewing process and can’t be avoided. 

Hard Kombucha

Sacramento has long been home to craft breweries and cideries. Wineries and distilleries, too, are mainstays in the Capital City. But up until recently, there were no hard kombucha bars. That all changed with the opening of Shorebirds last summer in Rancho Cordova. The colorful, surf-themed brewery and taproom pours boozy brews with flavors such as mango margarita and blueberry mojito, as well as hard seltzer and hard tea. 

Shorebirds is the brainchild of Randall Echevarria and his husband, Monte Hudock, who previously operated Brass Clover, a cold-press coffee company, in the same space. Like many small businesses, Brass Clover suffered during the COVID-19 pandemic. But the break afforded Echevarria and Hudock the mental space needed to revamp their business. “It gave us the opportunity to jumpstart the kombucha business,” Echevarria says.

Echevarria insists the minute he had his first taste of kombucha — a drink called Peachless by Sacramento brand Zeal – he knew it was for him. He started producing kombucha at home, later experimenting with different methods to ramp up the alcoholic content. “I fell in love with kombucha after my first sip. And my love for kombucha turned into my love for hard kombucha,” he recalls. “I found myself reaching for hard kombucha instead of hard seltzer or beer.”

Shorebirds uses fair-trade tea blends in all its products, plus the requisite SCOBY. “The real magic in producing hard kombucha is the secondary fermentation,” Echevarria says. “Whether sugar or juice, what we’re really doing is converting whatever type of sugar we’re using into alcohol.” It’s during that secondary fermentation when fruits, botanicals, and yeasts are added to boost the alcoholic content, adding flavor and dimension.

Shorebirds offers in its lineup five core flavors: strawberry, raspberry lemon ginger, blueberry mint, hard lemon seltzer, and hard citrus green tea. One of the most popular varieties here is Chasing Daylight, a tropical, fruity brew with hibiscus and activated charcoal, which in small amounts is believed by some to support the cleansing of impurities from the gut. Also on offer are seasonal flavors like pineapple and vanilla white peach. Over the summer, kombucha is turned into “hard swerve,” a frozen, boozy, vegan soft serve. “Everything we do here is different,” Echevarria beams. “We like to be innovative. We have the opportunity to be creative with beverages and see the excitement of our customers.”

Non-Alcoholic Kombucha

Although hard kombucha is relatively new in Sacramento, the city is no stranger to the kombucha trend. Local producers have been turning out non-alcoholic kombucha for years, selling brews wholesale, via farmers’ markets, and even from their own taprooms.

KC Kombucha in Oak Park, for example, has been producing non-alcoholic kombucha since 2017. Owner Courtney Edwards says technically, anything that’s fermented produces alcohol, but she must keep hers under that 0.5 percent limit. “It can be hard to control,” says Edwards. Controlling the alcohol content means slowing fermentation by both reducing the time it’s allowed to ferment and keeping it cool. These two interventions also reduce the carbonation levels, so Edwards must force carbonate with CO2. 

But for Edwards, producing a non-alcoholic kombucha was exactly what she wanted. Her Broadway shop is family friendly and free of the regulations that govern bars, breweries, and taprooms. She pours flavors like blueberry mint and pineapple ginger six days a week and also fills growlers to go. “We first and foremost believe people need non-alcoholic options when they’re out socializing,” Edwards shares. “We wanted to offer an outlet for non-drinkers. We definitely saw the demand for it.”

Hard Kombucha: A Growing Market

According to a 2022 study by Grand View Research, the hard kombucha market is growing significantly in the U.S. Between 2020 and 2021 alone, the market jumped 61 percent and it hasn’t shown any signs of stopping. In addition to Shorebirds, another hard kombucha brewer opened in 2022 in the Greater Sacramento Region. Located in Placer County, Mindscape Fermentations in Rocklin also produces beer and hard seltzer. 

Non-alcoholic kombucha is regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, as well as state and local governments. Anything above 0.5 percent ABV is regulated by the federal Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau. 

Kombucha advocates have been lobbying to redefine what constitutes hard kombucha. In 2021, a bill was re-introduced to Congress for the fifth time that would increase the limits on non-alcoholic kombucha to 1.25 percent ABV, still a trace amount by most standards. Headed by Kombucha Brewers International, the proposed legislation aims to reduce the tax burden on kombucha brewers whose products, even at low alcohol levels, are subject to federal taxes and warning labels. The aim is to align U.S. regulations with those in Canada, Australia, and Europe, thus allowing the non-alcoholic kombucha industry to grow and expand.