Don’t snub the shrub

Nothing against those who prefer their drinks neat, but there’s just something about a craft cocktail that hits all the right notes. Sweet, sour, smoky, floral, fruity — a good cocktail exhibits layered, well-balanced flavors.

Many cocktail devotees are familiar with the basic elements that go into a drink: bitters, simple syrup, soda or juice. But a lesser-known ingredient has made its way onto cocktail menus in recent years: shrubs. Shrubs, also known as drinking vinegars, are blends of fruit, sugar, and vinegar, which add complexity to both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. 

Although “drinking vinegar” doesn’t exactly sound appetizing, shrubs strike the right balance of tangy, sweet, and fruity. The vinegar brings out the fruit’s purest flavor and cuts through the sweetness. Adding sparkling water makes it especially refreshing on a warm summer day and, for the of age crowd, the addition of alcohol can kick it up a notch. 

Shrubs can be made from just about any fruit, but berries are especially common, as are stone fruits and pineapple. In terms of vinegar, it’s all a matter of taste. Fresh herbs such as basil or thyme can further enhance the flavor, as can spices. Shrubs can be made from just about anything; some recipes call for celery, tomatoes, or beets. 

Unlike their single-note counterparts, shrubs embody multiple flavors at once —sweet, sour, fruity, herbaceous, spicy – so all they need is a bit of soda water and spirits to create a beverage with intense depth and complexity. This makes them ideal for the home bartender since there’s no need to add multiple ingredients to achieve the same flavor profile. 

Ariel Jensen, who runs the cocktail program at Magpie Café in Midtown Sacramento, says many cultures have used drinking vinegars for hundreds of years as health tonics because of the probiotic qualities of the fermented fruit and vinegar. These mixtures also provided a way to preserve the flavors of the fruit prior to refrigeration.

In ancient Rome, soldiers drank a mixture of soured wine (vinegar) mixed with water, salt, herbs, and honey. In Europe, vinegar-based cordials were consumed for their supposed medicinal properties and to prevent scurvy among sailors. Shrubs became popular in colonial America as a way to preserve fruit that could later be enjoyed in the off season. 

The popularity of shrubs died down a bit over the years, but resurfaced along with the craft cocktail movement of the early 2000s. A renewed focus on locally sourced, house-made ingredients — many created from traditional methods — meant shrub-infused libations were once again gracing cocktail menus. 

“There was a curiosity among bartenders to dig into the past and find interesting ways to present complex flavor profiles in cocktails, and shrubs naturally lend themselves to that,” Jensen says.

When it comes to shrubs, the possibilities are truly endless. Use different vinegars, fruits, herbs, spices, or sweeteners to come up with unique variations based on personal preference. Jensen says it’s important to choose fruit that has a high juice yield when smashed. Another key is choosing a vinegar that will complement the fruit flavor and not overpower it. Her basic shrub formula is equal parts fruit, vinegar, and sugar. Magpie Café currently offers a cocktail with a Meyer lemon shrub made with Champagne vinegar, thyme, peppercorns, ginger, and cane sugar. 

Some other flavorful combinations Jensen recommends are peaches with vanilla bean, star anise, clove, peppercorn, Champagne vinegar, and brown sugar; strawberries with sage, white peppercorns, sherry vinegar, and agave; pineapple with red chili flakes, lime peels, Champagne vinegar, and cane sugar; and pomegranate with balsamic vinegar, cinnamon, black peppercorns, star anise, and demerara sugar.”

By changing the type of vinegar and sugar, plus adding spices and herbs, you can create your own special blends. There really are endless combinations to try, and it’s really easy to do using ingredients that most of us already have in our kitchen,” Jensen says. “It’s very straightforward and foolproof. It lends itself easily to the home bartender.